Here, in one of London's last Dickensian areas, is a throwback to the unpretentious simplicities that Britain was proud of in its food. The irony is that it is housed in a an airy glass-cube modern development. At the communal wooden tables you can enjoy such treats as the daily changing pies, devilled kidneys on toast, or rolled rib of beef with Yorkshire pud. And old-favourite puddings to match. Straightforward and to the point.