Designer name: Maria Francesca Pepe
Design background: “I studied Literature at Milan University for two years before heading to Istituto Marangoni in Milan to pursue four years in a Womenswear Fashion BA.
Two years after completing my BA, and having freelanced in Milan’s fashion industry, I applied and achieved my MA in Womenswear at Central Saint Martins. I also took short courses in Fine Drawing at the Royal College and Styling, Digital Design, Experimental Fashion Design and Professional Sewing at Central Saint Martins.
I worked alongside Jens Laugesen for the spring/summer 2008 season and enjoyed a brief period at Vivienne Westwood. I also worked for Pap Luciano Soprani and a well respected European high street label after my BA. This provided me with the demanding training you need in order to understand how fashion works on all the levels. Since starting my own label I have also been consulting for some commercial jewellery brands such as Morellato in Italy.”
Career Highlights: “I started MFP-Maria Francesca Pepe, showing my new concept of Jewellery-Wear in London, Milan and Paris, thanks to the great support of Fashion East, NEWGEN, UKTI and White. I sold the first collection to Dover Street Market, Henri Bendel, Space Mue and Tearose amongst others. That’s the greatest achievement: when you can make your passion your job.
Other highlights include: the 2009 nomination for Emerging Talent in Accessories at the British Fashion Awards; great editorials shot by amazing professionals such as Nick Knight and Steven Klein, and styled by Patti Wilson, Marie Chaix, Nicola Formichetti and Sophia Neophitou amongst many others; and finally personalities such as Lady Gaga, Rihanna, Sienna Miller and Jennifer Lopez wearing my creations. This has all put a huge smile on my face.
Last but not least, the jewellery I have designed for the Roksanda Ilincic and Amanda Wakeley catwalk shows has been a fulfilling and challenging experience. I very much enjoy working on a team and consulting for other designers.”
Design signatures: “The concept of Jewellery-Wear. This is when jewellery becomes the primary focus of the outfit - featuring in ranges including bags, jackets and dresses. Most significantly though, MFP Tubulars have become iconic; I constantly update them in new colours, textures, features and materials for the forthcoming seasons.”
How would you describe the MariaFrancescaPepe woman? “Anyone who desires both high-end, handcrafted quality and design originality with an avant-garde approach. I sell objects of desire, made in Italy, using the oldest techniques. My aesthetic constantly evolves and is far from obvious.
MFP creations are often inspired by the pop-trash contemporary culture but they actually reflect a more hidden, instinctive taste and approach to fashion. This allows the collections to be appreciated by a variety of customers, regardless of age.”
What is your trademark piece? “The MFP Tubular. It has lots of other names but is still a masterpiece. Recently, the ADE ring has become very popular thanks to editorials and celebrities like Jennifer Lopez and Karen Elson wearing it.”
Price range at retail: £50 - £500
Three autumn/winter 2012 inspirations: “Antique Berber jewellery; Japanese Harajuku high street fashion; Paco Rabanne in the sixties.”
What does 2012 hold for your brand? “An exclusive range of fine jewellery, and more exciting collaborations with the high street as well as high-end brands.”
What is your favourite decade in fashion? “The late eigthties and early nineties.”
Where do you go in London to seek artistic inspiration? “The V&A, tool shops and the park on a sunny day.”