After working with fashion brands such as Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu, his new collection is a complete and undiluted expression of his distinctive world, developed spontaneously as an extension of the process by which he makes clothes for himself, with all the looks pieced together by the designer on his own body, showcasing his love of fabrics and colours rejected by conventional tastes: vinyls, velours and diamanté synthetics in a sick rainbow of wildly unnatural and offensively saturated tones.
Fabrics are shredded and knitted, crocheted and woven like raffia with reflective tape and plastic, and used for fat embroideries or to fringe tassely boob tubes. Surfaces are hand painted by Matty using acrylic, spray cans, nail varnish and puffy paint. Prints appear in an aggressively oversized scale, executed by hand to celebrate the glory of the haphazard in a world of digital perfection. These various elements are then piled together in excessive, intensely contrasting combinations where the bright colours are overloaded into something sinister: there’s a darkness in the Day-Glo. His love of ancient folkloric signs and symbols is present throughout the collection, from his logo – a four-legged creature of indeterminate origin that might have been scratched on a cave wall or a bus shelter – to his high-tech stone-age accessories, to his big, shaggy, heavily decorated coats: vestments for shamanistic rituals in an age of plastic. Accessories include hand-customised bags by Coach, acrylic jewellery designed with Tatty Devine and candy-coloured clay jewellery handmade by Matty’s mum, Plum Bovan.
Matty Bovan is a part of Fashion East Womenswear AW17